Taking a broad look at Egyptian food, bread stands out as being the most important component of the Egyptian diet. Vendors, flat wicker baskets piled high with aish and perched precariously on their heads, wind their way through the crowded streets of Cairo to their favorite selling spot. Aish is the flat bread of Egypt, usually made with a combination of plain and whole meal flour with sufficient leavening to form a pocket and a soft crust, its basic character unchanged by the passage of millennia, and a constant reminder of the role Ancient Egypt played in developing the staff of life.

Barley, millet and wheat were the principal grains of earliest civilizations. According to anthropologists studying evidence, bread baked during these times was hard and chewy. Barley and millet do not contain adequate amounts of the gluten-forming proteins essential to make a light-textured bread. Wheat on the other hand does contain these proteins, but their nature can be altered if heat is applied at the wrong stage of preparation. The early wheat strains had to be heated before threshing so that the husk could be removed, so destroying these essential properties in the grain and giving wheat bread characteristics similar to those made of barley and millet.

The Ancient Egyptians developed a strain of wheat which could be threshed without the preliminary heating, taking a giant step towards the improvement of bread. Whether by accident or by design, they also found a means to leaven bread made from this wheat. Because of the shortage of the new grain, some centuries passed before other civilizations were introduced to leavened bread.

THE FLAVOR OF EGYPTIAN FOOD

Even an ex-patriate Egyptian living in a land where vast varieties of food are constantly available will still yearn for the bean dishes of his homeland. Ful Medamis, the brown bean puree made with ful (tiny broad beans, also known as fava beans) would probably be preferred, if offered, to the most exquisite French culinary creation, as it evokes nostalgia. He is likely to remember the ful vendors of his native homeland with huge idrara of ful simmering day and night, ready to provide a satisfying breakfast in the morning, a midday meal, or just a snack at any time. Ful Medamis is served as a mazza or as a substantial meal with hard-boiled eggs mashed into it and crowned with golden olive oil, tart with lemon, pungent with garlic, subtly flavored with cumin and topped with a generous sprinkling of parsley. While basically a simple peasant dish, it is the kind of dish which the Westerner now endeavours to duplicate after his forays in what are commonly called health food stores. Flat or crusty bread is a must and a variety of salad vegetables may be served with it, plus Salata Tahina. Similar foods which will equally stir the Egyptian far from home are Tameya, broad bean patties, Ful Nabed and Besara, a soup and a puree respectively, both made with skinned broad beans. A prized vegetable is bamia (okra), mostly favoured in meat and vegetable stews.

Many of Egypt's favored recipes appear in other chapters which they themselves acknowledge as belonging to other countries, so if you are looking for a particular dish tried during a stay in Egypt, then you are likely to find it elsewhere. For example the Yiouvetsi of Cyprus and Greece is as popular in Egypt where it is called Lissan al Assfour. While pigeons are highly regarded and specially for the table, in the interests of conservation I have preferred not to give a recipe. However if you can buy specially raised pigeons and wish to try an Egyptian recipe using them, then prepare the Farroog Mahshi recipe using four pigeons. instead of the two chickens specified. The stuffing for this particular recipe is usually made with a green wheat called fireek, rarely obtainable outside the Middle East. Coarse burghul or barley are substitutes, with the burghul the best for this recipe.

Whatever the meal or the occasion, aish is served with all meals. As you have no doubt gathered, there is much repetition in the foods of the various countries in the region covered, with many foods of one country being similar to those nearby. Aish, the Egyptian flat bread, is similar to the Saluf of Yemen. Follow the Saluf recipe, omitting the potent Hilbeh topping. Allow the shaped bread to rise for 15 minutes before baking and do not prick with a fork;. this ensures that a pocket forms when cooked. Even if you include the Hilbeh topping, you will not be far from the flavour of Egyptian food, as Hilbeh is known in Alexandria where it is used as a bread dip.

EATING EGYPTIAN STYLE

Western influence is still in evidence in the dining table of Egypt. The table is spread with a cloth and all the components of the meal are placed in their respective dishes and set on the table at the beginning of the meal. Individual plates or bowls are set out, with knives, forks and spoons. The meal could comprise a soup, chicken, fish or meat stew such as Bamia, Roz (rice), Torshee  (pickles), zatoun (olives), salata (salad) and bread.

If a bean puree or soup is served, then lemon wedges, chopped onions, salad vegetables and Salata Tahina accompany it. Quite often such a meal is served without other foods, excepting plenty of bread of course.

COOKING METHODS

Most homes are not well equipped as far as cooking facilities are concerned. A single burner often is the only means by which to cook. For the making of Ful Medamis, the Egyptians have a small electric hotplate which plugs into the standard power point. This keeps a constant low heat and is just large enough to take the small idra, a special pot which tapers at the top, in which the beans are cooked slowly for several hours. A casserole dish with a wide base tapering to a narrow opening will substitute for the idra.

For any other Egyptian cooking, modern pots, pans and casserole dishes can be used successfully.

INGREDIENTS FOR EGYPTIAN COOKING

The dried beans, ful and ful nabed, are available Middle Eastern and Asian food stores and specialist food stores. Though I have not come across them, I am informed that broad beans are available already skinned. These look white (the unskinned ones are green to almost purple) and should be used for Besara, Ful Nabed and Tameya, saving considerable time. A shorter soaking time is necessary, and though your yield will be greater, use the quantities given in the recipes, adjusting flavourings slightly.

Ground cumin, dried mint, fresh dill, flat leaf parsley and garlic are the principal flavor givers, with butter and olive oil the favored fats.
 

EGYPT LEGUMES/SOUPS

FUL MEDAMIS

SIMMERED FAVA BEANS

Though Ful Medamis is proclaimed as the national dish of Egypt, it is also enjoyed in other countries of the region.

In Egypt the Java beans (small broad beans) are cooked very slowly in an idra, a special pot which tapers to a narrow neck. The shape is deliberate so that the small amount of water used in the cooking is not lost. At steam condenser on the upper sloping cider, it drops back into the pot. There are casserole dishes with a somewhat similar design, and these may be used successfully for the preparation of ful. Otherwise use, a heavy pan with a tight fitting lid.

Serves: 6 
Cooking time: 5-6 hours

2 cups dried ful (fava or small broad beans)
4 cups cold water
1/2 cup ads asfar (red lentils),
optional salt 3 cloves garlic
pinch of ground cumin

For serving:

6 hard-boiled eggs, 
optional finely chopped parsley 
lemon wedges 
olive oil freshly 
ground black pepper

1. Wash beans well, then cover with the cold water. Leave to soak overnight, in a cool place if weather is warm.

2. Place beans and their soaking water in a heavy pan, add j lentils if used, cover tightly and simmer very gently for 5-6 hours. Alternatively place beans and water with lentils in a casserole dish with tapering sides, cover tightly and place in a  very slow oven, 120°C (250°F) and cook for 6 hours. 

3. Check beans occasionally, and add a little water if they look  dry. Do not stir while cooking, as doing so will cause them to  stick to utensil. 

4. Crush garlic with a little salt and add to beans with addi tional salt to taste and a pinch of ground cumin. If desired,  beans may be passed through a sieve to puree, otherwise serve  them as they are. 

5. Serve in soup bowls, adding a quartered hard-boiled egg if  used, and a sprinkling of chopped parsley to each. Each diner  squeezes on lemon juice and adds olive oil and pepper to  individual taste. The beans and egg are usually crushed with a  fork and bowl contents blended. Serve with flat or crusty bread,  crisp salads and Salata Tahina (page 281).  To serve as an appetizer: Puree the beans, add garlic,, salt, E pepper, cumin and blend in lemon juice and olive oil to taste.  Serve spread on a dish with a good sprinkling of parsley. Flat  bread cut into quarters should accompany the Ful Medamis.

TAMEYA

BROAD BEAN PATTIES

Maker 30
Cooking time: 5 minutes each lot
 

2 cups ful nabed (dried broad beans) water
1 cup chopped spring onions 
1/4 cup chopped parsley 
2 tablespoons chopped coriander leaves
3 cloves garlic 
1/2 teaspoons salt
freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon hot chili pepper 
1/4 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda 
sesame seeds,
optional oil for deep frying
 

1. Place beans in a bowl and cover well with cold water. Leave to soak for 2 days, changing water 2 or 3 times. 

2. Drain beans and remove skins by pressing each firmly with fingers. Bean should pop out, otherwise tear skin with fingernail then squeeze. 

3. Pass cleaned beans through food grinder using fine screen. Combine with spring onion, parsley, coriander, garlic, salt, peppers and soda. Pass through grinder twice more, then knead to a paste. Let mixture rest for 30 minutes. 

4. With wet hands shape about a tablespoon of mixture at a time into thick patties about 4 cm ( 1 1/2 inches) in diameter. Dip each side in sesame seeds if desired. Place on a tray and leave at room temperature for 20 minutes. 

5. Heat oil to 180°C (350°F) or until a cube of bread turns golden in 1 minute. Fry tameya a few at a time until deep golden brown, turning to brown evenly. Each lot should take 5 minutes to cook. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot with flat bread such as Khoubiz Salata Tahina  and assorted salad vegetables such as tomato, cucumber, sweet peppers and lettuce. 
 

Food processor method: Combine prepared ingredients and process in 2 lots using steel blade. Mix well to evenly distribute flavors, rest mixture 30 minutes and continue from Step 5.

BESARA

BROAD BEAN PUREE

Large dried broad beans (Ful nabed) are used for Besara. Those sold skinless are white and though not readily available, are well worth using if you can find them. Soak skinned beans for 24 hours in a cold place and use the soaking water in the cooking. The beans with skin intact require longer soaking so that the tough seed covering can be removed.

The melokhia in the recipe is optional; its use imparts a green color to the puree without affecting the flavor. An aluminum cooking utensil is likely to cause discoloration of the pure; use stainless steel, tin lined copper or an enameled utensil if possible.
 

Serves: 5-6 
Cooking time: 1 3/4 hours

3 cups ful nabed (dried broad beans)
cold water 
salt 
freshly ground black pepper 
3 teaspoons dried mint
1 teaspoon melokhia, optional

For serving:

Ta'leya II olive oil chopped onions lemon wedges

1. Cover beans well with cold water and soak for 48 hours, changing water 2 or 3 times. Remove skins.

2. Place beans in a pot with 5 cups water and bring to a slow simmer. Cover and simmer gently for 1 1/2 hours until very soft.

3. Pass through sieve or puree in a blender and return to pot. Add salt and pepper to taste, rubbed mint and well-rubbed melokhia if used. Cook gently, uncovered, until bubbling.

4. Serve hot in small bowls, garnishing each with ta'leya (See Below). Have on hand a cruet of olive oil, chopped onions and lemon wedges in bowls so that these may be added to individual taste. Serve with flat bread or crusty bread.

EGYPT SAUCES/APPETIZERS

TA'LEYA I

GARLIC SAUCE

This it more of a condiment to be added to cooked dishes than a sauce in the accepted sense. 1 have given a somewhat modified version usually 6 or 7 clover of garlic are used in Egypt for adding to a dish serving 6 or so. As garlic increases in pungency when cooked at directed, be warned and decrease amount even further if you with. Of source it depends on the size of the garlic clover used and the pungency of the variety.

3-4 cloves garlic
1/4 teaspoon salt 
2 tablespoons samneh or clarified butter 
1 teaspoon ground coriander 
pinch of hot chili pepper

1. Crush garlic with salt in a mortar. Alternatively crush in a garlic press and mix with salt. 

2. Heat samneh or butter in a small pan and add garlic. Cook, stirring constantly, until golden brown, remove pan from heat Is and stir in coriander and pepper. Use while sizzling hot as directed in recipes. 

TA'LEYA II

ONION SAUCE

2 large onions
1/4 cup olive oil 
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1. Halve peeled onions lengthwise then slice thinly to give semicircles. 

2. Heat olive oil in a pan, add onions and fry over medium heat until golden brown. Add garlic and cook a minute longer. Use as directed in recipes. 

SALATA TAHINA
TAHINI SALAD

Makes about 1 3/4 cups

2 cloves garlic salt 
3/4 cup tahini
1 tablespoon white vinegar 
juice of 1 lemon
1/2 cup water
1/2 teaspoon 
ground cumin 
1/2 cup chopped parsley
 

1. Crush garlic cloves with 1/2 teaspoon salt.

2. Place tahini in mixing bowl and beat well. This preliminary beating reduces the strong flavor of the tahini.

3. Beat in garlic and vinegar. Gradually add lemon juice alternately with water. To make a cream salad of good consistency add enough lemon juice to make the tahini very thick before adding water. This way you have more scope in adjusting the flavor and consistency of the sauce.

4. Add salt to taste, and more lemon juice if a sharper sauce is required. Blend in cumin and parsley and chill until required. Serve as a mazza or as directed in recipes.

EGYPT BREADS

SEMIT

SESAME BREAD RINGS

Makes about 18 
Oven temperature:
220°C (425 °F) 
Cooking time: 15 minutes

1 sachet active dry yeast 
3/4 cup warm water 
1/2 cup milk, 
boiled and cooled to lukewarm
4 cups plain flour 
1 teaspoon salt 
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons oil 
1 small egg, beaten 
sesame seeds
water

1. Soak yeast in 1/4 cup warm water and stir to disso 

2. Sift flour into a mixing bowl, remove about 1 cup flour set aside.

3. Add remaining warm water and warm milk to yeast  and sugar and stir to dissolve sugar.

4. Pour liquid into center of flour and stir in a little of  to thicken liquid. Cover and leave in a warm place minutes until frothy.

5. Blend in remaining flour in bowl and beat until then beat by hand for 10 minutes or on electric mix dough hook for 5 minutes. Gradually beat in oil, adding of the reserved flour.

6. Turn onto a floured board and knead in as much reserved flour as the dough will take. Knead for 10 min until smooth and satiny. Shape into a ball.

7. Oil bowl lightly, add dough and turn it in bowl to Stretch plastic film over bowl and leave dough in a war for 30 minutes or until doubled in bulk.

8. Punch down dough and turn onto a lightly floured Knead a little, then break off pieces the size of a small 

9. Roll a piece of dough into a rope 1 cm (1/2 inch) thick 4cm (8 inches) long. Form into a ring, overlapping  and pressing to seal.

10. Make about 5 rings, then glaze with beaten egg ; tops in a dish of sesame seeds. Place on a lightly oiled sheet.

11. Shape remainder of dough into rings, 5 at a time,  each lot with egg glaze and sesame seeds.

12. Cover finished semit with a cloth and leave in a d free place until doubled - about 30 minutes.

13. Place a baking dish of hot water on the bottom shelf oven. Bake semit on center shelf of oven for 15 minutes until semit sounds hollow when tapped. When cooked, brush while hot with water and leave on baking sheets to cool. This crisps the crust.

Note: Normally each semit is shaped, glazed and coated separately, but preparing them in small batches speeds up the job. if you shape all of them before glazing, the first begin to they are more difficult to handle.

More Recipes in the next issue

Mervat Mahmoud